DOULEUR! is an exciting collaboration between Antonio Gardoni of Bogue Profumo and artist/tattooist (and ex-fragrance blogger) Freddie Albrighton.
It opens with a rush of lavender, rosemary and sweet mint, layered on acetates and aldehydes that shriek at a knife-sharp pitch. A veil of melon aquatics, the saltiness of seaweed and an underlying sweetness drape over it, so that every contrasting note rolls together into something that gradually gets softer and more pliable.
As it wears, the shining star of DOULEUR! comes through, a piercing metallic rose, barely resembling a floral we are familiar with. Here it begins to turn more playful, with wisps of cotton candy and caramel taking over the cool, piercing opening, and softening more as layers of flesh, benzoin and hints of cedar ground and melt DOULEUR! into a second skin.
It has a radiant translucency that billows accords of sunburnt skin, a glimpse of something waxy and animalistic, and a warm comforting vanilla, all surrounded by this sharp hologram of an oxidised rose.
This is Bogue like you’ve never smelt it before. There is no pleasure without DOULEUR!